As Chioma Nnadi’s tenure as head of editorial content at British Vogue stretches into yet another month, one can’t help but feel a growing sense of frustration. To say her leadership has been a letdown might be an understatement. Under her guidance, the iconic British fashion magazine—once revered for pushing boundaries and setting trends—has become increasingly predictable, failing to capture the essence of the bold, trailblazing spirit it once embodied.
Take, for example, the recent Vogue covers, which have struggled to make the same impact as those of previous years. Yes, they feature A-list celebrities—Zendaya, Sophie Turner, Kylie Jenner, Tyla—but rather than elevating these stars, the covers have felt almost formulaic, devoid of the spark that usually makes a Vogue cover a moment to remember. It’s as though the magazine has been trying too hard to appease mainstream expectations, and in doing so, has lost its edge.
Which brings us to the May 2025 issue of British Vogue. The cover star? Billie Eilish, the American singer-songwriter who has long been a fixture in the world of fashion and music. But, this isn’t her first time on the cover. In fact, it’s been four years since Edward Enninful, former editor-in-chief of British Vogue, gave the then-teenage artist a fashion overhaul that made waves. Now, four years later, Billie is back on the cover for a second round, this time photographed by Johnny Dufort.
The choice of Billie Eilish is not, in itself, a bad one. She is, after all, one of the most influential artists of her generation, known not just for her music but also for her unique sense of style. However, the execution of this cover—captured against the sweeping backdrop of California’s wilderness—feels somewhat underwhelming. The creative team, led by stylist Taylor McNeill, put together a mix of fashion labels, including Willy Chavarria, Chanel, Martine Rose, A Bathing Ape, and Erl. These brands are no doubt fashionable and relevant, but there’s a sense of repetition here, as though we’ve seen this combination before.
Billie’s style—characterized by oversized silhouettes, bold colors, and a somewhat androgynous aesthetic—has become synonymous with her image. But is it enough to just rely on her brand without injecting something fresh and exciting into the shoot? It’s a question that looms large as we look at these covers, which, while undeniably chic, lack the daring creativity that one might expect from a Vogue cover in 2025.
One might argue that Billie Eilish is emblematic of the problem British Vogue has been facing under Nnadi’s leadership: a reliance on established stars without pushing the envelope. While there’s nothing wrong with featuring A-list talent, there’s a sense that the magazine is playing it safe, opting for celebrities who are guaranteed to generate clicks rather than spotlighting emerging talent or taking bold risks in fashion.
It’s important to note that Nnadi’s appointment to the role of editorial content head was seen as a move toward diversifying Vogue’s content. But, rather than steering the magazine into more progressive waters, it feels as if the publication has become bogged down in mediocrity. Where is the innovation? Where are the daring, experimental shoots that once made Vogue an international standard of style?
It’s clear that British Vogue is in a period of transition. Nnadi’s leadership, while undoubtedly well-intentioned, has yet to make the lasting impact that some might have hoped for. The covers, the styling, the concepts—all of them seem to be missing the bold vision that characterized the magazine during its golden years under Enninful.
For now, we’re left wondering if this is simply a temporary lull or if it’s a sign of things to come. Vogue has always had a unique ability to reinvent itself, to stay relevant in an ever-changing industry. But with its recent output, one has to ask whether the magazine is ready for a real shake-up. Could it be that British Vogue needs a fresh vision—one that isn’t afraid to challenge convention and redefine what it means to be a fashion authority in 2025?
Only time will tell if Chioma Nnadi is able to steer the ship back to its former glory or if British Vogue will continue to tread water, leaning on the same old formula of celebrity-driven covers and safe, expected fashion choices. Until then, we’ll continue to watch as the magazine grapples with its identity in a rapidly evolving cultural landscape. And perhaps, just perhaps, we’ll begin to see the magazine take more risks, embrace a bolder creative vision, and finally live up to its legacy as a leader in the world of fashion.
